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Main article: History of Abercrombie & Fitch There have been three retailers called Abercrombie & Fitch, and the current A&F shares only its name with the original business. Founded in 1892 in Manhattan by David T. Abercrombie and Ezra H. Fitch, the real Abercrombie & Fitch was an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods, particularly noted for its expensive shotguns, fishing rods, and tents. In 1976 Abercrombie & Fitch filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, finally closing its flagship Manhattan store in 1977. The name was revived shortly thereafter, when in 1978-79, Oshman's Sporting Goods, a Houston-based chain, bought the defunct firm's name and mailing list. Oshman's relaunched A&F as a mail-order retailer specializing in hunting wear and novelty items. It also opened shops in Beverly Hills, Dallas, and (by the mid-1980s) New York City. Finally, in 1988, Oshman's sold the company name and operations to The Limited, a clothing-chain operator based in Columbus, Ohio. The current version of A&F sells mostly clothes instead of pith helmets or elephant guns, and describes its retailing niche as an aspirational "Casual Luxury" lifestyle brand. Especially since 1997, the company has consistently kept a high -profile in the public eye - both positive and negative - due to its type of advertising (including its own film and magazines), its philanthropy, and its involvement in legal conflicts over branding, clothing style and employment practices. The Abercrombie & Fitch company headquarters, or "Home Office", is located in New Albany, Ohio. Home Office is designed as a campus of sorts, and is referred to as such. The company's merchandise distribution centers (1,000,000sq.ft) are located exclusively on campus to help ensure brand protection. Also on campus are mock-up stores, one for each A&F brand, where store layout, merchandise and atmosphere are determined. The company uses "brand representatives", now called "models," for store customer service. The models had been required to buy and wear Abercrombie & Fitch apparel, but following a company settlement with California state labor regulators may now wear any no-logo clothing as long as it corresponds with the season. The California settlement also provides $2.2 million to reimburse former employees for their forced purchases of company-branded clothing. An "Impact Team" was created in 2004 to control merchandise within each store and maintain company standards; "visual managers" are responsible for forms, lighting, photo marketing, fragrance presentations and to ensure models comply with the "look policy". Lawsuits have been filed against the company due to alleged discriminatory employment practices. In 2004, in Gonzalez v. Abercrombie & Fitch Stores (see Legal issues & Controversy and Criticism below), the company was sued for giving desirable positions to white applicants, to the exclusion of minorities. The official logo of Abercrombie & Fitch is the moose. A&F is known for its racy marketing photography by Bruce Weber. It is rendered to grayscale and features outdoor settings, usually with semi-nude males and females. In 2004 lawsuit González v. Abercrombie & Fitch, the company was accused of discriminating against ethnic minorities by preferentially offering desirable positions to White American employees. The company agreed to an out-of-court settlement of the class action suit. As part of the settlement terms, Abercrombie and Fitch agreed to pay US$45 million to rejected applicants and affected employees, include more minorities in advertising campaigns, appoint a Vice President of Diversity, hire 25 recruiters to seek minority employees, and discontinue the practice of recruiting employees at primarily white fraternities and sororities. In June 2009, British law student Riam Dean, who had worked at A&F's flagship store in London's Saville Row, took the company to an employment tribunal. Dean, who was born without a left forearm, claimed that although she was initially given special permission to wear clothing that covered her prosthetic limb, she was soon told that her appearance breached the company's "Look Policy" and sent to work in the stock room, out of sight of customers. Dean sued the company for disability discrimination, and sought up to ￡20,000 in damages. In August 2009, the tribunal ruled the 22-year-old was wrongfully dismissed and unlawfully harassed. She was awarded ￡8,013 for hurt feelings, loss of earnings, and wrongful dismissal. In a lawsuit filed in September 2009 in U.S. District Court in Tulsa by the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission, 17-year- old Samantha Elauf said she applied for a sales position at the Abercrombie Kids store in the Woodland Hills Mall in June 2008. The teen, who wears a hijab in accordance with her religious beliefs, claims the manager told her the headscarf violates the store's "Look Policy." In 2010, a Muslim woman working at a Hollister store in San Mateo, California was fired. Before being dismissed, Hani Khan had refused Abercrombie & Fitch's HR representative's demand that she remove her hijab. The representative reportedly stated that the headscarf, which Khan wears for religious reasons, violated the company's "Look Policy". The civil liberties group Council on American-Islamic Relations has stated that the dismissal is a violation of nondiscrimination laws, and filed a complaint with the U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. In 2002, Abercrombie & Fitch sold a shirt that featured the slogan "Wong Brothers Laundry Service—Two Wongs Can Make It White" with smiling figures in conical Asian hats, a depiction of early Chinese immigrants. The company discontinued the designs and apologized after a boycott started by an Asian American student group at Stanford University. That same year, abercrombie kids removed a line of thong underwear sold for girls in pre-teen children's sizes after parents mounted nationwide storefront protests. The underwear included phrases like "Eye Candy" and "Wink Wink" printed on the front. More t-shirt controversies occurred twice in 2004. The first incident involved a shirt featuring the phrase, "It's All Relative in West Virginia," a jab at alleged incest relations in rural America. West Virginia governor Bob Wise spoke out against the company for depicting "an unfounded, negative stereotype of West Virginia," but the shirts were not removed. Later, another t-shirt that said "L is for Loser" next to a picture of a male gymnast on the rings gathered publicity. The company stopped selling the shirt in October 2004 after USA Gymnastics president Bob Colarossi announced a boycott of Abercrombie & Fitch for mocking the sport. In 2005, the Women and Girls Foundation of Southwest Pennsylvania launched a "girlcott" of the store for selling T- shirts that read, "Who needs brains when you have these?", "Available for parties," and "I had a nightmare I was a brunette." The campaign received national coverage on The Today Show, and the company pulled the shirts from stores on November 5, 2005. Bob Jones University and its affiliated pre-collegiate schools along with other Christian schools have prohibited Abercrombie & Fitch clothing from being "worn, carried, or displayed" on its campuses because of "an unusual degree of antagonism to the name of Christ and an unusual display of wickedness" in the company's promotions. After Abercrombie & Fitch raised its price points in 2004, its products have been described as overpriced.[76] After the company opened its flagship in London, the brand was criticized in the UK because the merchandise that was offered to the customers cost double (or even a direct $/￡ swap) the prices found in the United States. Controversy has risen yet again over A&F's Back-to-School 2009 collection of "humor tees". A men's shirt proclaims "Show the twins" over a young woman with her blouse open to two college men. Two other shirts state "Female streaking encouraged" and "Female Students Wanted for Sexual Research".[84] The American Family Association (AFA) disapproves over A&F negligence to the fact that it is a brand looked up to by teens and wants the brand to remove the "sexualized shirts" merchandise. In November 2010, the Southampton, England, Hollister store prevented 18 year old Harriet Phipps from wearing the Red Poppy, which is worn as part of the Armistice Day commemorations in the United Kingdom every November. Ms Phipps was particularly upset as the commemorations also include those in current active service in Iraq and Afghanistan where both UK and US troops make up the bulk of coalition forces present, and she has a personal friend serving. The official Abercrombie & Fitch reason for the refusal was reported to be that the poppy is not considered part of the corporate approved uniform, and is therefore prohibited. However, on November 8 the company posted on their Facebook page the following statement: "As an American company that has been around since 1892, we appreciate the sacrifices of the British and American servicemen/women in the World Wars and in military conflicts that continue today. Our company policy is to allow associates to wear a poppy as a token of this appreciation on Remembrance Day. Going forward, ...we will revisit this policy to the days/weeks leading up to Remembrance Day." This has led to some confusion over what the company's official position really is on this matter. A&F casts only store employees for marketing campaigns. Casting directors from the home office travel to key A&F regional stores in the United States and to London to hold "casting calls" for employees aspiring to become the next "A&F New Face". The company promotes its casting sessions, models, and photo shoots in the "A&F Casting" feature online at abercrombie.com. The website also provides a gallery of current photography. Framed copies at A&F stores will sometimes name the model and store. The trademark slogan, Casual Luxury.The Abercrombie & Fitch brand image is heavily promoted as an international near-luxury lifestyle concept. The company began cultivating an upscale image after the 2005 opening of its Fifth Avenue flagship store alongside Prada and other upscale retailers. Having for years used high-grade materials in the construction of its merchandise and priced them at "near-luxury" levels, the trademark Casual Luxury was introduced as a fictional dictionary term with multiple definitions such as "[using] the finest cashmere, pima cottons, and highest quality leather to create the ultimate in casual, body conscious clothing," and "implementing and/or incorporating time honored machinery ...to produce the most exclusive denim..." This upscale image has allowed A&F to open stores in international high-end locations and further promote the image by pricing its merchandise at almost double the American prices. Overall, CEO Jeffries calls the A&F image a "movie" because of the "fantasy" that plays out instore. Even some of the clothing is given "story": "You buy into the emotional experience of a movie," Jeffries explains, "And that's what we're creating. Here I am walking into a movie, and I say, 'What's going to be [at] the box office today?'" Women's Wear Daily calls Abercrombie & Fitch clothing classically "neo-preppy", with an "edgy tone and imagery".The company's fashions have a reputation for luxury, with the majority of designs trend-driven. There is heavy promotion of "Premium Jeans". In early 2010, the company introduced a leather handbag collection inspired by designs from Ruehl. Its prices are recognized as the highest in the youth-clothing industry. Internationally, prices are almost double those in its American stores. Retail analyst Chris Boring warns that the company's brands are a "little more susceptible" should recession hit, because their specialties are premium-priced goods rather than necessities. Indeed, as the late-2000s recession continues, A&F has noticeably suffered financially for its refusal to lower prices or offer discounts. A&F argues that doing so would "cheapen" its near-luxury image. Analyst Bruce Watson warns that A&F risks finding itself transformed into "a cautionary tale of a store that was left by the wayside when it declined to change with the times". A&F's year-to-year revenue, a key indicator of a retailer's health, rose 13% in September 2010, aided by strong international sales. Abercrombie & Fitch carries men's fragrances Fierce, Cologne 41,Colden, and have re-branded the original cologne Woods (Christmas Floorset 2010). Women's fragrances include 8, Perfume 41, Wakely, and Classic. Fierce and 8 are the most heavily marketed fragrances, as they are the signature scents of the brand overall. The company also offers the Abercrombie & Fitch Credit Card, issued by the World Financial Network National Bank.
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